April 12, 2019 - Bad beta.

It seems that the way I climbed "Aplats du Jour (direct)" in Bois Rond Auberge last week, was nearly a bad beta version of its left variation that I had done just before. It turns out that the high crimps that I used on the left for my left hand and a toehook was eliminated.
This does make it an eliminate and could explain why it felt soft for the grade.
I went back there after work today, joined by Cee, who is still on holiday here and decided to come along.

It only took a handful of tries before I was able to top out "Aplats du jour (direct)", not using the big crimp on the left this time. However, I still cannot make more than a (soft) 7A+ out of it.

Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - Aplats du Jour (direct) 7B

Cee was working in "Didgeridoo" and after showing him how it was done, after quite some tries, he got really close. This is one that he will tick off sooner than later.