It was a perfect moment to compensate some overtime this afternoon, and spent in Apremont Ouest.
I wanted to see some of the even more new boulders that had been published a few days ago.
When I bumped into Pascal and his wife and later also Bart (Van Raaij) near the parking, it was clear that the forecasted sunny weekend promises to be busy.
One of the new boulders that stood out and that I wanted to see as first, was "Bishopbleau", which has four variations on it.
At first "Bishopbleau" looked kind of easy, but each attempt sucked the energy out of me and I had to admit that I had greatly underestimated it. It's the easiest of all variations and I was already getting pumped.
Finally when I managed to work myself through the physical first part of the problem, I was spooked that it still wasn't over yet, on the contrary.
There was still a hard mantle coming up and I wasn't sure if I still had enough power left in me, but staying calm and taking my time to look helped me up.
This felt hard and might as well have been 7B if you ask me.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Bishopbleau 7A+
As this easiest line had already taken so much of me, I decided to keep the other lines for some other day and went up the hill to find the new "Piece of Mind", graded 7C(8A).
I suppose the 8A would be for the less tall climbers, because even with my arm span, I couldn't even find a slightly possible way.
The variation "Piece of Mind (droite)", though, I was able to flash without too much difficulty. Still nice line though.
I suppose the 8A would be for the less tall climbers, because even with my arm span, I couldn't even find a slightly possible way.
The variation "Piece of Mind (droite)", though, I was able to flash without too much difficulty. Still nice line though.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Piece of Mind (droite) 7A
After over a year of absence, Marc Lehner is in the forest with his family for a few days and after a small chat, I headed to "Massacre à l'Intermarché", where I enjoyed the sun.
I made some good attempts in it, but with the sun, the bad slopers were losing their friction.
On the way down, I stopped and did something with "Cartoons", but as the top was covered with moss, I had to find a different method which made it feel more like a soft 7A at most.
Not sure if this method is allowed though. (Update - too far off the line for "Cartoons")
I made some good attempts in it, but with the sun, the bad slopers were losing their friction.
On the way down, I stopped and did something with "Cartoons", but as the top was covered with moss, I had to find a different method which made it feel more like a soft 7A at most.
Not sure if this method is allowed though. (Update - too far off the line for "Cartoons")
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest
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