That was already many years ago, and by now, I had already spent a fair amount of sessions on it. The first three or four sessions, I couldn't do the first move, but somehow I knew that this huge dynamic move from the undercling to a bad sloper was possible, and kept coming back for it. The fact that it is nicely isolated from the main area definitely plays a part in it, but also the line itself kept calling me.
The last session, a couple of months ago, I had finally been able to stick that first hard move, but with the low boulder in my back and only one crashpad with me, I chickened out, I didn't dare to go all the way and start the mantle.
Now that I had also received a smaller Drop Zone crashpad from Black Diamond a few weeks ago, I had a second one to also cover the ground, so it only came down to waiting for the good conditions to go back for it.
Today seemed like a good day.
It was again freezing cold with a dense fog this morning, but it was forecasted to clear up and the sun should come out around noon.
I was patient and waited for it to clear up, but by noon there was still no sign of the sun anywhere in sight. Even the fog hadn't dissipated completely yet, but I left anyway.
The conditions of the boulder were good, but I had hoped for better though. I was afraid that the slopers would become humid too soon again after being touched by warm hands.
The first move didn't work out immediately, but after gradually fine-tuning it, it stuck again but as I was spooked by it, I failed on next.
The second time it stuck, the sloper already felt less good and I had to let go.
I took a short break to let it dry out a bit more and regain its friction, and finished it the attempt after.
It felt great to top it out! A true beauty that perfectly fits my style and still felt hard.
It was a long battle, but the victory was sweet.
Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - Contact 7B+(7B)
No comments:
Post a Comment