As Boulancourt is just behind Buthiers, I decided to make a small detour on the way back and went to try "Formication" in Buthiers Canard.
I got really close to sending "Formication" this time, but just like every other, the sharp hold on the left arete had cut a chunk of skin off my pinky finger. I had to do something else.
It didn't bother that much, because part of the plan was to stop at Buthiers Nord also, which wasn't even a detour, but right next to the road from Malesherbes to La Chapelle la Reine.
I had seen this shady area only once, but the North faced roofs were soaked and dry very slowly. This time however, with this long dry period, I expected at least some problems to be dry.
When I saw the boulders appearing after the short 100m walk, I was surprised with how beautiful this small sector really is now that literally everything was completely dry. Most of the problems looked stunning! The only downside was that some moss had taken over here and there and that some parts of the boulders tend to be a bit sandy.
Most of attention went to "Freedom (direct)" though, the first line that I wanted to try, and also one the most appealing.
It was a clean flash.
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Nord - Freedom (direct) 7A(7A+)
One of the other easier lines on the other side of the small sector, is "Matrix". Starting with a sharp jug and making a big dynamic move to another more friendly jug.
The starting jug was so sharp however, that I couldn't pull hard enough on it with the already torn skin on my left hand. I really wanted to do it though, so I looked for and found another, but harder way.
Starting at the same sharp jug, but making a small detour with some nice moves towards a crescent shaped crimp right hand. What follows is also a slightly dynamic move, but the crimp feels uncertain. Felt definitely more like a 7A+ this way, however is considered a different method for "Matrix".
The starting jug was so sharp however, that I couldn't pull hard enough on it with the already torn skin on my left hand. I really wanted to do it though, so I looked for and found another, but harder way.
Starting at the same sharp jug, but making a small detour with some nice moves towards a crescent shaped crimp right hand. What follows is also a slightly dynamic move, but the crimp feels uncertain. Felt definitely more like a 7A+ this way, however is considered a different method for "Matrix".
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Nord - Matrix 6C+(7A)
I still had quite some fun on some other harder, but beautiful problems, but was too tired to still finish any of them off.
Now I still need to convince Pieter to come back here when the time stays dry. Something tells me that convincing him will not be the problem.
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