My body felt soar because of the constant fight against the cold and the first move from "Vandale" didn't go any better than yesterday.
For the fun of it, I made a video of a crouching start version and I'm guessing it will be around 7B.
Comments are welcome. 😄
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Vandale (accroupi) 7B
I had to keep moving to get warm again and decided to look for some of the isolated boulders of Rocher Cailleau.
I found the boulder of "Le Phalloïde", but it was too high and exposed to try anything on it on my own.
Then I wanted to look for the small cave roof of "Tirelipimpon" all the way up on the neighbouring hill.
It was a long and steep walk but got treated with some nice plays of sunlight between the trees.
I must have looked for at least an hour when I had to give up the search. It's one of those boulders where you stand on top of it without knowing it.
On the way back I bumped into Jean-Hervé (Baudot) who gave me some hints for finding it, but I didn't want to walk all the way up the hill again. Besides, JHB told me that it's an ideal Summer problem.
There was still some time left before the freeze would fall though and I still wanted to climb something small.
According to the description on bleau.info, "Frontale et Parapluie", on the boulder just below "Vandale", has a 'dynamic start' which reads to me as in jumpstart.
Doing it with a jumpstart felt in no way as a 7A+. At most 6C+.
As I had it on video, I wanted to share it anyway.
I found the boulder of "Le Phalloïde", but it was too high and exposed to try anything on it on my own.
Then I wanted to look for the small cave roof of "Tirelipimpon" all the way up on the neighbouring hill.
It was a long and steep walk but got treated with some nice plays of sunlight between the trees.
Beautiful play of light at Rocher Cailleau.
On the way back I bumped into Jean-Hervé (Baudot) who gave me some hints for finding it, but I didn't want to walk all the way up the hill again. Besides, JHB told me that it's an ideal Summer problem.
There was still some time left before the freeze would fall though and I still wanted to climb something small.
According to the description on bleau.info, "Frontale et Parapluie", on the boulder just below "Vandale", has a 'dynamic start' which reads to me as in jumpstart.
Doing it with a jumpstart felt in no way as a 7A+. At most 6C+.
As I had it on video, I wanted to share it anyway.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Frontale et Parapluie (départ sauté) 6C+
There is however a more logical start with both feet on the wall, left hand on a vertical hold and the right on an obvious undercling. Jump from that static position and you have got your 7A+ but slightly on the soft side.
It's a very fun dyno to do and I definitely recommend trying it when being around in the area anyway.
It's a very fun dyno to do and I definitely recommend trying it when being around in the area anyway.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Frontale et Parapluie 7A+
Sun was going down. Too cold. Bye.
Love to read it,Waiting For More new Update and I Already Read your Recent Post its Great Thanks.
ReplyDeleteManchester