It took me all my efforts to do "74% de Cacao", I had some good tries in "Purée de Noisettes" but I couldn't get my ass off the ground in "Fat Cat". It was almost frustrating.
Sunday and Monday it rained all day, Tuesday (yesterday), it was dry but I had to work and only had a short session after dinner. So, all in all, giving me some time to rest and grow some skin.
I needed it because I took the day off from work today, knowing that the only good days to climb this week would be today and maybe tomorrow.
I'm truly glad it was today, because it was one of those days where it all got together in a positive way.
I had the energy, was extremely motivated and it turned out I was in a really good shape!
My main goal for today was "Purée de Noisettes" as I was able to do the problem in two parts last time and it is completely my style.
I arrived at about 10am at the boulder but most holds were still a little damp. I knew that with the sun out like today, it would dry very quickly and went to "Mort Sur" to warm up.
"Mort Sur" is a short problem, also totally my style of climbing. I had it on my third try.
Fontainebleau - Les Béorlots - Mort Sur 7A
It went quicker than I expected and I didn't want to go back to "Purée de Noisettes" yet to give it more time to dry.
Two boulders further, near the entrance of the labyrinth of Les Béorlots', you can find "Salathé".
An unusual problem for Fontainebleau. Apparently the crack is a 'Dülfer-style' crack, whatever that may be. All I noticed was that it was indeed unusual style for the region.
Nice problem, with a really nice kneebar in the crack. Not hard, but technically it felt weird in the beginning.
No idea how many, but here it were more than three tries.
Two boulders further, near the entrance of the labyrinth of Les Béorlots', you can find "Salathé".
An unusual problem for Fontainebleau. Apparently the crack is a 'Dülfer-style' crack, whatever that may be. All I noticed was that it was indeed unusual style for the region.
Nice problem, with a really nice kneebar in the crack. Not hard, but technically it felt weird in the beginning.
No idea how many, but here it were more than three tries.
Fontainebleau - Les Béorlots - Salathé 7A
Having done that too, I went back to "Purée de Noisettes" and felt a little nervous as it was the one that I had set my goal towards.
I took my time to prepare the crashpad, setup the camera and to prepare myself mentally. That calmed me down and I felt more than ready.
I was immediately able to do the first dynamic move on my first try, but the edge of the roof for the left hand felt a bit sandy. It wasn't like that on Saturday.
I didn't let it get to me and carefully brushed off the hold which was still not completely dry, just like Saturday.
Anyway, I knew that when applying enough compression, it would stick again, as long as those grains of sand didn't come back.
My tries after that were much better as the hold didn't feel sandy anymore. I did make the mistake to try a different beta for reaching the upper left sloper. I tried to avoid using the crimp right hand, but that was bad idea.
Back to the original beta, and there it went.
I almost fell off the last move, but I stayed calm and corrected myself. I didn't want to try it all again from the start after getting that far.
It was a good idea to put my left foot really high, slapped for the far sloper right hand, got it and balanced all my weight as fast I could on my left foot, hoping it wouldn't slip away in the process.
My joy was great when I stood on top. I had it and I was content!!
I took my time to prepare the crashpad, setup the camera and to prepare myself mentally. That calmed me down and I felt more than ready.
I was immediately able to do the first dynamic move on my first try, but the edge of the roof for the left hand felt a bit sandy. It wasn't like that on Saturday.
I didn't let it get to me and carefully brushed off the hold which was still not completely dry, just like Saturday.
Anyway, I knew that when applying enough compression, it would stick again, as long as those grains of sand didn't come back.
My tries after that were much better as the hold didn't feel sandy anymore. I did make the mistake to try a different beta for reaching the upper left sloper. I tried to avoid using the crimp right hand, but that was bad idea.
Back to the original beta, and there it went.
I almost fell off the last move, but I stayed calm and corrected myself. I didn't want to try it all again from the start after getting that far.
It was a good idea to put my left foot really high, slapped for the far sloper right hand, got it and balanced all my weight as fast I could on my left foot, hoping it wouldn't slip away in the process.
My joy was great when I stood on top. I had it and I was content!!
Fontainebleau - Les Béorlots - Purée de Noisettes 7B+(7B)
From now on, everything else that I would climb was going to be a bonus as my main goal had been achieved.
"Fat Cat" came into my mind.
If only I would be able to do the first two move which are, in my opinion, the hardest. The rest of the problem is more about technique and especially confidence.
When I sat down at the start today, it felt so possible right away.
I setup my camera and my cellphone because I wasn't keen on having to do the problem twice if it would have been necessary.
Thanks to technology I only had to it once. Big bonus!
"Fat Cat" came into my mind.
If only I would be able to do the first two move which are, in my opinion, the hardest. The rest of the problem is more about technique and especially confidence.
When I sat down at the start today, it felt so possible right away.
I setup my camera and my cellphone because I wasn't keen on having to do the problem twice if it would have been necessary.
Thanks to technology I only had to it once. Big bonus!
Fontainebleau - Les Béorlots - Fat Cat 7B(7A+)
It was only noon when I packed the crashpad again, so there I still had plenty of time left to gather some more bonuses.
I came up with the thought of finally checking out and trying the problems on the boulder of "Complainte de Vallée" in an even more isolated part of Vallée Chaude. You know, the beautiful valley where princesses wander about, singing songs with tsjirping birds on their heads and caressing deers.
I had found the boulder once by coincidence when I was doing a long walk with my mom. I had noticed a nice boulder featuring a superbe roof. It was only when I got back home from that walk that I discovered it was the boulder with "Complainte de Vallée".
So I parked the car and felt lucky that I knew where to go because the description on bleau.info doesn't reveal much information.
The problem itself felt really hard, and I gave up on it quickly. Sometimes you just know that you have to stop and come back another time.
Before I left, I did think of it to note down the coordinates so I could send them to Jean-Pierre to add them to the description on the boulderpage of bleau.info.
The coordinates are N48°22'29" E2°33'8".
Below a picture of the beautiful Vallée Chaude.
I came up with the thought of finally checking out and trying the problems on the boulder of "Complainte de Vallée" in an even more isolated part of Vallée Chaude. You know, the beautiful valley where princesses wander about, singing songs with tsjirping birds on their heads and caressing deers.
I had found the boulder once by coincidence when I was doing a long walk with my mom. I had noticed a nice boulder featuring a superbe roof. It was only when I got back home from that walk that I discovered it was the boulder with "Complainte de Vallée".
So I parked the car and felt lucky that I knew where to go because the description on bleau.info doesn't reveal much information.
The problem itself felt really hard, and I gave up on it quickly. Sometimes you just know that you have to stop and come back another time.
Before I left, I did think of it to note down the coordinates so I could send them to Jean-Pierre to add them to the description on the boulderpage of bleau.info.
The coordinates are N48°22'29" E2°33'8".
Below a picture of the beautiful Vallée Chaude.
I left slowly again while thinking about where to go next.
Coquibus Grandes Vallées, to stick with the 'valley' part, is close to home and a new small and low roof has been opened about a week or two ago, and I decided to check it out even though I wasn't looking forward to the short but steep climb up the hill.
I found the roof quickly and it was even lower and smaller than I expected.
Even though it didn't go down without a small fight, it did feel quite soft for the grade.
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Réunion sans BG 7A
I still had energy left to try one more short problem and although I never tried "Délit de Sale Nom" before due to the small boulder lying right under it, I went for it.
I was bit afraid at first to do the move towards the left arete, but after two or three tries I had built up enough confidence to give it a real try.
The arete on the left offered enough hold to cling on to, but it wasn't over yet. I had to stay calm and set the little fear I had aside to look for some positive holds on the top.
Not a top of the bill problem but I was glad enough I did it.
On the way back to the car I thought about today's climbing and felt relieved with all I did.
I was tired and it was a good moment to call it a day. I had been in a good shape!!
I was bit afraid at first to do the move towards the left arete, but after two or three tries I had built up enough confidence to give it a real try.
The arete on the left offered enough hold to cling on to, but it wasn't over yet. I had to stay calm and set the little fear I had aside to look for some positive holds on the top.
Not a top of the bill problem but I was glad enough I did it.
On the way back to the car I thought about today's climbing and felt relieved with all I did.
I was tired and it was a good moment to call it a day. I had been in a good shape!!
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Délit de Sale Nom 7A
No comments:
Post a Comment