Being so close to doing "Nouvelle Vague" in Cul de Chien last weekend, I was annoyed that the upcoming weekend will be the infamous crowded Easter weekend, and Cul de Chien will be a must avoid area for me. I felt annoyed not being to return quickly, but when I looked at my work calendar this morning, it looked like I could take the afternoon off. Only a meeting at 17h30 this evening, but I would be back by then. The parking was already very full, and it looked like the first new wave of Easter visitors had already arrived, but I didn't let it get to me and while walking towards the boulder, I prepared mentally for meeting a crowd. I wasn't wrong about the crowd, the area looked like a climbing hall and the roof with "Nouvelle Vague" was obviously crowded, but luckily not packed. The only advantage was that there were more than enough crashpads and some climbers who were willing to spot without me asking. It wasn't hot or really warm, but the slopers didn't feel as good as last weekend and I didn't expect any success. But when my youngest son, Noah, who came with me, told me that I could do it, it must have given me a boost. Not much later, I was able to do the far move to the right and, keeping calm, I was able to struggle my way up. One can still fall off the boulder until the very end, something that I witnessed someone else doing not long after. Anyway, taking the afternoon off turned out to have been the good choice. Thanks to my boss for letting me go on such a short notice.
My youngest son Noah came with me for climbing today, so I chose something nearby where we could each find something to climb for our own. We went to 91.1, where I wanted to try "l'Arbitre (assis)", an old (open) project of mine of which Antoine Maire got the first ascent a few weeks ago and graded it 7C. As I my right arm felt quite painful already when trying the standing start again, I decided to not loose time on this one and we moved to the nice overhanging boulder of "Pleine Prouesse". The last problem on that boulder that I still had to do. "Pleine Prousse" was proposed 7C(7B+), but after doing it on my second attempt, I concluded that it more felt like 7A+, soft 7B at most. Nevertheless, a nice problem.
Having done this so quickly, I decided to do it again, but without the good hold far right, for neither the hands, nor the feet and only using the crimp. It does make the move to the higher sloper dynamic, at least for my height, and it made it much more interesting. It took me quite a few attempts to control the move and finally top it out. I named this game "Pleine Prousse (sans la bonne de droite)", and doing it this way could be low end 7B+, or maybe 7B for taller climbers.
Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Pleine Prouesse (droite sans la bonne de droite) 7B+
Being Noah's turn to climb now, we went back to main area to find some boulders more suitable for him, where he made quick work work of "Le Ti'Bloc" (yellow 17) and repeated it for a video.
Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Le Ti'Bloc (yellow 17) 2 (Noah)
At the end of his session, he worked a very long time in the very nice "Le D.A." (orange 12). Easy for my height, but much harder for him, as he has to make a big dyno to the edge. He got close to doing it a few times, but had to throw in the towel when he was getting too tired. Definitely his project now and he's eager to come and finish it off.
Yesterday, after I hit my head, I sent a picture via Whatsapp message into our family group with the comment "My turn ...", upon which my youngest son, Noah, responded with "Why do you copy me ?". Reason for that is because about three weeks ago, during a heavy wind storm, a branch broke off a tree and fell on his head, resulting in a heavy bleeding head wound, going to the hospital emergency and him being stitched up with six stitches, right about the same spot where my head was wounded. After my wife cleaned the wound at home, I decided a few hours later, when the bleeding still hadn't stopped, to go to the hospital as well, resulting in the wound requiring three stitches to close it up. If Noah and I were to have a stitches contest, he won by far. Despite my head wound, I still felt motivated to go climbing, but when I woke up this morning, it was raining and it didn't look like any climbing would be possible today. Instead, I went for a walk to an isolated unpopular area to locate some boulders that I could try during the upcoming and always crowded Easter weekend, assuring that I will avoid the crowds and be climbing alone. After having done that, I drove to Beauvais to locate the boulder of "Le Percuteur" again. I had already done a couple of problems on that boulder almost three years ago, and I remembered that it took a while before I found it. That time, I wasn't parked at the Télégraphe tavern, but I remember that I had the impression that this parking was closer than the one I was parked on in 2021. I wanted to prepare myself to find it more easily when the weather would be better another day. I was able to find the boulder after some detours and looking around, and by the time I found it again, the rain had stopped some time ago and the sky had cleared up once in a while. To my surprise, thanks to a slight breeze, the holds of "Le Percuteur" were dry and the problem even looked very climbable. On top of that, the friction on the slopers on the right was close to perfect. I was determined to go and get my crashpad from the car and come back to try it. Somehow, and luckily, the Maps app on my phone always remembers where my car is parked, so I used to app to walk straight to my car without detours and come back the same way. I did try "Le Percuteur" three years ago, but I remember that I wasn't able to reach the better crimp, not even using Youp's method, using another small and sharp crimp on the left first. Somehow, this didn't give me any problems now. The main problem now was that I due to my short legs, I wasn't able to reach the low hold under the roof statically, so I was forced to jump to it and catch it in compression. A move that usually suits me pretty well. Even though it felt nearly impossible at first, I was able to stick that move after persisting for a while. Using that method, I topped out "Le Percuteur" after a handful of attempts when coming from the start, making sure that I started recording as soon as I was doing attempts from the start. Not 7C, but in my opinion definitely 7B+ when you don't have the length to reach the far right hold statically. Beautiful problem!
Fontainebleau - Beauvais Hameau - Le Percuteur 7B+(7C)
Last weekend, after almost 5 years, I went back to "Freestyle" in Coquibus Rumont with my oldest son helping me to carry an second crashpad.
Came really close, but after almost 2 hours, it had sucked all the energy out of me and I was forced to leave it behind undone.
I was determined to go back today, alone this time and carrying both crashpads myself. Highly motivated, I warmed up doing the very last move of "Freestyle", and when I wanted to try the start again, I passed the first crux, then very unexpectedly the second and hardest crux where I had expected to fall, but I stuck it. Realizing that I hadn't even turned on the camera yet, in a fraction of a second, I thought of Pieter who would have told me to continue. Instead of jumping off, I took a deep breath and somewhat unexpectedly, stuck the very last move as well, which is also the last crux of this gem.
Mixed feelings of joy disappointment came over me because of not having it on video, but as I cruised through it on my first attempt today, I wasn't even tired yet and was pretty confident to be able to repeat it for the video after a short break.
As it happens, I always tend to have less drive and motivation when wanting to repeat a problem immediately after doing it, but I cruised through the first crux start again, felt confident for the second crux, but maybe too confident and probably too carelessly as well, slipped off and hit the back of head very hard against the boulder behind me. I had a small cut that started bleeding, but adrenalin kept me going and I gave it another few tries with my hat on, but for obvious reasons, I had a hard time keeping my focus. Barely 5 minutes later, the adrenalin faded, I got a slight headache and when I noticed that the bleeding didn't stop, decided to go back home.
Only a video with some attempts from last week and from after my injury, but honestly, at this point, I don't care, and even feel that topping out "Freestyle" on my first attempt today, was all worth it. No regrets. I decided to publish a video anyway, containing some of my best attempts from last week and the attempt (moment) where I had hit my head after the send today. Be safe y'all!!
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Rumont - Freestyle 7C (attempts last week and post warmup send of today)
After a lot of rain yesterday and last night, everything was soaking wet outside this morning. It made no sense to leave early, so I took my time and left later than usual. It was still mostly wet outside and even though it wasn't forecasted to rain today, it was cloudy and there wasn't a lot of wind to speed up the drying process. It was going to be a matter of luck to find something dry enough to climb, but taking a calculated guess, I intended to try and get the luck on my side by going to Apremont. My intention was to start my search in Apremont Vallon de la Solitude, and from there work my way back through some other Apremont areas as needed. No luck in Apremont Vallon de la Solitude, but working my way back through Apremont Est, I did find some boulders dry here and there, but nothing that I had in my mind to try. Still working my way back, tried my chances at the boulder of "Tropicaux", knowing that this one gave me luck a few months ago. Low and behold, even though it looked bad at first, the holds of "Trop de Piquette" were dry and the low pinch was even in very good conditions friction wise. I had briefly tried "Trop de Piquette" last time after I did "Tropicaux", but I only get mu butt of the ground, after which I found mself completely stuck and couldn't move out of the position I was in. With a fresh mind today, I let my body guide on what it felt like doing next and came up with a possible solution. It turned out to be a very awkward and difficult move, but after pushing through, I was able to stick it and top out.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Trop de Piquette 7B+
On my way back, I passed by "Egoïste" and realized that it was dry as well. I had only tried once or twice, but only briefly because the balanced moving didn't suit me well and I figured it was not in my style. That was maybe ten years ago though, so I decided to stop and give it a few goes. Surprisingly, I was able to find my balance and was moving quite well through it. After a handful of attempts, and some minor tweaks, I topped out this ultra classic and had a hard time understanding why I never did this sooner.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Egoïste 7A(6C+)
The sitstart, "Egoïste (assis)", followed immediately after.
Last year when the weather was not good enough to climb, I went for a walk around Apremont with Pieter and Jan (Gorrebeeck). When we passed through Apremont Mare aux Biches, we stopped at some boulders, out of which the low roof of "Un Ch'ti Délire", just below the North side of the ridge. It looked impossible to Jan and Pieter, but I remember that I kind of saw a way. Last Sunday, I finally went to the boulder to give it a try and, to be honest, the far move to the crimp under the roof did really look impossible. Even after I tried it a few times, it still looked impossible. Nevertheless, I didn't give up and after a while I started to change my mind and a while later, I was able to stick it. After that move, your body is under a constant tension and it's still a couple of moves in that position to go to the end. Due to rain, I had to let it go, but I was determined to go back. After a short warmup this morning, I focused on the move under the roof, and immediately after I was able to do it, I turned on the camera and started giving attempts from the start. Much faster than expected, I was able to finish it.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Un Ch'ti Délire 7C(7B+)
I didn't have much time left anymore, but still got away with a flash of "Déserteur (prolongé)".
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Déserteur (prolongé) 7A
Last weekend I was in Belgium for the bachelor weekend of one of my best friends who is getting married in April. Even though I don't drink alcohol, it was a very exhausting weekend and I had taken the day off on Monday so I could go for a climb. I was still very tired, but nevertheless had a good session working in "Paie ton Mac DO (assis)" and even fell off after the crux of the problem on my fourth attempt. After that, it only got worse and I had to leave it behind, but I knew I could do it if I was more fresh and decided to go back today. The weather was great, the birds were chirping and there was a nice blue sky and quite warm in the sun. It felt like Spring was there already. Even though I had a feeling that there was a big chance of sending "Paie ton Mac Do (assis)" quite quick, I didn't expect sending it immediately on my first attempt after a short warmup. I executed the moves almost perfect and stayed calm and focused when I passed the crux. Pure joy!
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - Paie to Mac Do (assis) 7C(7B+)
Having arrived barely fifteen minutes ago, I felt like staying in the area and walked around to look for something else. Not having planned for it, I decided to try "L'Esprit du Knee Bar", of which I had done the standing start back in October 2019. That day, I witnessed Pieter doing the full line, but I had failed finishing it. To my big surprise, this one as well went on my first attempt of today. Pure joy!
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - L'Esprit du Knee Bar 7B
I felt in shape, but couldn't try "Maison de la Presse" due to humid slopers on the shady side of the boulder. For "Astromech" and "Astrolab" I definitely prefer to have a spotter and being the shade, they were humid anyway. After looking on bleau.info, I decided to go and try the new "Kayzen" in the Western part of the sector. After watching the video of the first ascensionist, I soon discovered that his method was way too morpho for me. There was no way for me to reach the edge of the overhang the way he did, so I had to come up with something else and tried it with a right heelhook which felt really hard. I wasn't sure I would be able to do it that way, but I stuck around because I had so much fun trying to unlock this sequence. My persistence was rewarded with an ascent a while and quite a few attempts later. Pure joy!
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - Kayzen 7A+(7A)
Back at home I was in a real Spring mood and decided to prune our olive tree. Three hours later it was done and the feeling of Spring coming up felt like pure joy!
