September 18, 2025 - Racing the dark.

It was a last moment decision when I decided to go for a quick climb after diner, so it was already late when I arrived in 91.1 to try another one of the recent openings of Theo (Konstantakopoulos). 
I had briefly tried the standing start of "Philion", named after Theo's son, a week or two ago, but quickly threw in the towel due to very bad skin. The standing start starts with a fairly good crimp left hand, and a very, very bad tiny crimp for the right. Hence my decision to quit last time when I had bad and sweaty skin.
After my first attempt today, I thought it would be a quick deal and I would be able to work the sitstart soon, but it couldn't be farther from reality. After that first try, my right hand just kept on slipping off that tiny crimp at crucial moments and the times that I was able to jump, I was always too far off the better hold. It became a race against the upcoming darkness.
My skin started to sweat as if it already was in recovery mode, but I persisted until I finally had an attempt where it stuck.
I still tried the sitstart a few times, was able to get up into the standing start, but couldn't find enough on the crimp anymore to do the jump. In the meantime, darkness had caught up on me, and I was forced to quit. I will come back for this one quite soon though. The moves of the sitstart are beautiful.

Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Philion 7A

September 15, 2025 - Last light, quick fight.

A couple of days ago, Theo (Konstantakopoulos) sent me a message suggesting me to go try one of his new ascents in Canche aux Merciers, "Big Fish (assis)". As it was raining as good as all day yesterday, I only was able to go check it today this evening after work and dinner.
We finished eating later than I expected, and it was already just past 20h when I arrived at the boulder. Even though it's not that noticeable on the videos, it was the very last light of the day and darkness was going to fall soon. I had to hurry.
The starting pinches didn't suit me very well at first, but after a few minutes, featuring a few tries, I got the hang of it and topped it out. Pretty nice one indeed.

Fontainebleau - Canche aux Merciers - Big Fish (assis) 7A+

I still had a little time before it would be really dark, and I spent it on the other side of the boulder, trying "Pac-Man", also from Theo.
A huge very violent move to the right, followed by a harder than it looks topout. Quite sketchy as well. 
Somehow, barely ten minutes later, I managed to stick the dyno, did the far move to the slopey arete and to my surprise, I didn't fall off. Improvising, I had to use a power scream to not fall off at the very end. It seemed to have helped, because I topped it out then.

Fontainebleau - Canche aux Merciers - Pac-Man 7B+(7B)

September 13, 2025 - Problem solving.

Yesterday, Saturday, it was my birthday and even though I wanted to climb in the morning, I had to keep the session short so I could do something with my family later that day. It would have been great to be able to do "Tempête Solaire" in Apremont Butte aux Dames, but the conditions weren't ideal and I didn't want to spend the whole session again trying the separate moves. Instead, I chose to go to the nearby boulder of "Bavaria", with the intention to try the harder problems on it, starting with "8-6 Bavaria (bas)".
The transition low to the left using the beta I saw online seemed impossible at first, but thinking out of the box made me come up with another method, using a toehook for the right and a hidden kneebar for the left leg. It worked, but the crux near the end was giving me some trouble. Luckily it didn't take too long before I was also able to solve the problem there and a few attempts from the start later, I was able to make my way through to the end. I really liked the solution that I found on this one.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - 8-6 Bavaria (bas) 7B+(7B)

To finish the session, I made a quick ascent, from my first attempt, doing the slightly easier "8-6 Bavaria", which does use the better holds higher up. Nice one on itself.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - 8-6 Bavaria 7A+

September 11, 2025 - Well timed pinching.

Still hectic and stressful workdays, and with rain forecasted for the weekend, I was in a desperate need for a short climb this evening. 
I was keeping an eye on the sky outside during dinner and it looked threatening. I immediately left after dinner to the nearby La Ségognole, looking at dark clouds coming my way. I wanted to try the new "Sacrée Pince", just recently opened by Theo (Konstantakopoulos), but I feared that it would start raining as soon as I arrived. Luckily, it didn't, and I hurried putting on my shoes after having turned on the camera. Despite not having warmed up at all, there was a slight possibility that I would do this quickly.
I wasn't very wrong and was able to send it on my third attempt. It was all about the first move, like many of Theo's first ascents. I did love the starting pinch, which seemed to fit my hand perfectly.
I could feel a few rain drops while walking back to the car, and after only a few hundred meters of driving, the clouds turned on their tap and let it all out. It was suddenly raining cats and dogs and my street had almost turned into a river by the time I got back home. It was a perfect timing.

Fontainebleau - La Ségognole - Sacrée Pince 7B

September 06-07, 2025 - Not so on.

I didn't have a very good weekend climbing wise, but I had good company nonetheless. 
After a very heavy work week, I still felt tired throughout the whole weekend and it was hard to keep the motivation high somehow. Luckily Lars and Simi and also Theo on Sunday, were there to keep the session bearable, which made stay instead of just calling it a very short session.
Yesterday, I wanted to try "Man Power" in Apremont Désert, and after a short warmup trying the moves of "Les Surimis" on the boulder next to it, I was pleasantly joined by Lars and his girlfriend Simi. Soon after their arrival, I was able to do "Les Surimis".

Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Les Surimis 7A+(7B)

My attention then briefly turned to "Man  Power", but after having worked out almost all the moves separately, I somehow lost interest and didn't feel like trying hard. 
We decided to move to another boulder on which I briefly tried "Le Hurleuir", but also there lost interest pretty quickly as it just felt too hard for the day.
Instead, after watching Simi send "Malicia" on the other side of the boulder, Lars and I started trying a harder version, "Malicia (droite)". Even though we had a good idea about how to the hard mantle, the whole crux of the problem, execution turned out much harder than the theory. In the end, I was able to get away with it, but Lars will have to come back, despite having been so close.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Malicia (droite) 7A

Today, I had agreed to meet Theo (Konstantakopoulos) in 91.1, and also Lars and Simi were there. 
Theo had found an isolated boulder just outside the main area and after some brushing and cleaning, we were able to imagine a logical problem. It turns out to be very hard, and despite having done the moves separately, none of us could do a full ascent yet. Would have been nice to get the team send.
Theo then showed us one of nicer lines, "Philion", named after his son. I definitely see this doable one day, but my skin was thin, sweaty, and I couldn't motivate myself anymore to try hard. It was nice to see Lars do the standing start. Definitely one of Theo's nicest.
I can't say that I had completely off-weekend, but it certainly and unfortunately wasn't so on neither.