It hadn't rained anymore since yesterday, but new rain was expected for this afternoon. Still avoiding crowds, I went back to the boulder of "Oreille Cassée" in Moigny-sur-Ecole, hoping that the boulder had dried more than yesterday, allowing me to try at least one of the other lines on it. The right part of the boulder had dried more, just enough to allow me to try "L'Oreille Cassée (droite)", which I did on my first attempt. Still having the moves in my muscle memory definitely helped.
I was hoping the most for the key holds of "Crabe d'Or" to be dry, but it seems that those sucked up the moisture like a sponge and require a long dry period for them to dry. Instead though, I was able to do "L'Oreille Cassée (prolongé)" on my second attempt. I will have to come back in Summer for "Crabe d'Or" and "Crabe d'Or (droite)".
Despite it had been raining a lot yesterday evening and last night, my main goal was to avoid the crowds, so I went to one of the most interesting boulders in the relatively unknown area of Moigny-sur-Ecole, the one with "Oreille Cassée". I had scouted this sector two weeks ago to be prepared, so luckily I knew where to go and get to the boulder quite easily. I didn't really expect it to be dry, but I was hoping for at least the holds under the roof to be dry, so I could try some of those moves. Obviously, most of the boulder was soaking wet, but just as I had hoped, the holds under the roof were perfectly dry. On top of that, it looked like the only line, and mainly its topout, looked to be drying. Using a small ventilator, I gave the top slopers some wind while I started working out the moves under the roof, which only took me maybe five minutes. I had to be patient for the slopers on the top to feel dry. Nothing that can break off that part of the boulder, so as soon as I saw fit, I gave it a real go, only to slide off the last move. I had to be a bit more patient. About ten minutes later, I tried again and topped out.
There quite a few more lines on this boulder that I wanted to try, but the rest of the boulder doesn't seem to dry very quick, so I contented myself by doing the lower moves of "Crabe d'Or". At least I already know those now, and as I'm able to do the whole first part, sending it should be almost a formality next time, when it's completely dry.
Being so close to doing "Nouvelle Vague" in Cul de Chien last weekend, I was annoyed that the upcoming weekend will be the infamous crowded Easter weekend, and Cul de Chien will be a must avoid area for me. I felt annoyed not being to return quickly, but when I looked at my work calendar this morning, it looked like I could take the afternoon off. Only a meeting at 17h30 this evening, but I would be back by then. The parking was already very full, and it looked like the first new wave of Easter visitors had already arrived, but I didn't let it get to me and while walking towards the boulder, I prepared mentally for meeting a crowd. I wasn't wrong about the crowd, the area looked like a climbing hall and the roof with "Nouvelle Vague" was obviously crowded, but luckily not packed. The only advantage was that there were more than enough crashpads and some climbers who were willing to spot without me asking. It wasn't hot or really warm, but the slopers didn't feel as good as last weekend and I didn't expect any success. But when my youngest son, Noah, who came with me, told me that I could do it, it must have given me a boost. Not much later, I was able to do the far move to the right and, keeping calm, I was able to struggle my way up. One can still fall off the boulder until the very end, something that I witnessed someone else doing not long after. Anyway, taking the afternoon off turned out to have been the good choice. Thanks to my boss for letting me go on such a short notice.
My youngest son Noah came with me for climbing today, so I chose something nearby where we could each find something to climb for our own. We went to 91.1, where I wanted to try "l'Arbitre (assis)", an old (open) project of mine of which Antoine Maire got the first ascent a few weeks ago and graded it 7C. As I my right arm felt quite painful already when trying the standing start again, I decided to not loose time on this one and we moved to the nice overhanging boulder of "Pleine Prouesse". The last problem on that boulder that I still had to do. "Pleine Prousse" was proposed 7C(7B+), but after doing it on my second attempt, I concluded that it more felt like 7A+, soft 7B at most. Nevertheless, a nice problem.
Having done this so quickly, I decided to do it again, but without the good hold far right, for neither the hands, nor the feet and only using the crimp. It does make the move to the higher sloper dynamic, at least for my height, and it made it much more interesting. It took me quite a few attempts to control the move and finally top it out. I named this game "Pleine Prousse (sans la bonne de droite)", and doing it this way could be low end 7B+, or maybe 7B for taller climbers.
Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Pleine Prouesse (droite sans la bonne de droite) 7B+
Being Noah's turn to climb now, we went back to main area to find some boulders more suitable for him, where he made quick work work of "Le Ti'Bloc" (yellow 17) and repeated it for a video.
Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Le Ti'Bloc (yellow 17) 2 (Noah)
At the end of his session, he worked a very long time in the very nice "Le D.A." (orange 12). Easy for my height, but much harder for him, as he has to make a big dyno to the edge. He got close to doing it a few times, but had to throw in the towel when he was getting too tired. Definitely his project now and he's eager to come and finish it off.
Yesterday, after I hit my head, I sent a picture via Whatsapp message into our family group with the comment "My turn ...", upon which my youngest son, Noah, responded with "Why do you copy me ?". Reason for that is because about three weeks ago, during a heavy wind storm, a branch broke off a tree and fell on his head, resulting in a heavy bleeding head wound, going to the hospital emergency and him being stitched up with six stitches, right about the same spot where my head was wounded. After my wife cleaned the wound at home, I decided a few hours later, when the bleeding still hadn't stopped, to go to the hospital as well, resulting in the wound requiring three stitches to close it up. If Noah and I were to have a stitches contest, he won by far. Despite my head wound, I still felt motivated to go climbing, but when I woke up this morning, it was raining and it didn't look like any climbing would be possible today. Instead, I went for a walk to an isolated unpopular area to locate some boulders that I could try during the upcoming and always crowded Easter weekend, assuring that I will avoid the crowds and be climbing alone. After having done that, I drove to Beauvais to locate the boulder of "Le Percuteur" again. I had already done a couple of problems on that boulder almost three years ago, and I remembered that it took a while before I found it. That time, I wasn't parked at the Télégraphe tavern, but I remember that I had the impression that this parking was closer than the one I was parked on in 2021. I wanted to prepare myself to find it more easily when the weather would be better another day. I was able to find the boulder after some detours and looking around, and by the time I found it again, the rain had stopped some time ago and the sky had cleared up once in a while. To my surprise, thanks to a slight breeze, the holds of "Le Percuteur" were dry and the problem even looked very climbable. On top of that, the friction on the slopers on the right was close to perfect. I was determined to go and get my crashpad from the car and come back to try it. Somehow, and luckily, the Maps app on my phone always remembers where my car is parked, so I used to app to walk straight to my car without detours and come back the same way. I did try "Le Percuteur" three years ago, but I remember that I wasn't able to reach the better crimp, not even using Youp's method, using another small and sharp crimp on the left first. Somehow, this didn't give me any problems now. The main problem now was that I due to my short legs, I wasn't able to reach the low hold under the roof statically, so I was forced to jump to it and catch it in compression. A move that usually suits me pretty well. Even though it felt nearly impossible at first, I was able to stick that move after persisting for a while. Using that method, I topped out "Le Percuteur" after a handful of attempts when coming from the start, making sure that I started recording as soon as I was doing attempts from the start. Not 7C, but in my opinion definitely 7B+ when you don't have the length to reach the far right hold statically. Beautiful problem!
Fontainebleau - Beauvais Hameau - Le Percuteur 7B+(7C)
Last weekend, after almost 5 years, I went back to "Freestyle" in Coquibus Rumont with my oldest son helping me to carry an second crashpad.
Came really close, but after almost 2 hours, it had sucked all the energy out of me and I was forced to leave it behind undone.
I was determined to go back today, alone this time and carrying both crashpads myself. Highly motivated, I warmed up doing the very last move of "Freestyle", and when I wanted to try the start again, I passed the first crux, then very unexpectedly the second and hardest crux where I had expected to fall, but I stuck it. Realizing that I hadn't even turned on the camera yet, in a fraction of a second, I thought of Pieter who would have told me to continue. Instead of jumping off, I took a deep breath and somewhat unexpectedly, stuck the very last move as well, which is also the last crux of this gem.
Mixed feelings of joy disappointment came over me because of not having it on video, but as I cruised through it on my first attempt today, I wasn't even tired yet and was pretty confident to be able to repeat it for the video after a short break.
As it happens, I always tend to have less drive and motivation when wanting to repeat a problem immediately after doing it, but I cruised through the first crux start again, felt confident for the second crux, but maybe too confident and probably too carelessly as well, slipped off and hit the back of head very hard against the boulder behind me. I had a small cut that started bleeding, but adrenalin kept me going and I gave it another few tries with my hat on, but for obvious reasons, I had a hard time keeping my focus. Barely 5 minutes later, the adrenalin faded, I got a slight headache and when I noticed that the bleeding didn't stop, decided to go back home.
Only a video with some attempts from last week and from after my injury, but honestly, at this point, I don't care, and even feel that topping out "Freestyle" on my first attempt today, was all worth it. No regrets. I decided to publish a video anyway, containing some of my best attempts from last week and the attempt (moment) where I had hit my head after the send today. Be safe y'all!!
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Rumont - Freestyle 7C (attempts last week and post warmup send of today)
After a lot of rain yesterday and last night, everything was soaking wet outside this morning. It made no sense to leave early, so I took my time and left later than usual. It was still mostly wet outside and even though it wasn't forecasted to rain today, it was cloudy and there wasn't a lot of wind to speed up the drying process. It was going to be a matter of luck to find something dry enough to climb, but taking a calculated guess, I intended to try and get the luck on my side by going to Apremont. My intention was to start my search in Apremont Vallon de la Solitude, and from there work my way back through some other Apremont areas as needed. No luck in Apremont Vallon de la Solitude, but working my way back through Apremont Est, I did find some boulders dry here and there, but nothing that I had in my mind to try. Still working my way back, tried my chances at the boulder of "Tropicaux", knowing that this one gave me luck a few months ago. Low and behold, even though it looked bad at first, the holds of "Trop de Piquette" were dry and the low pinch was even in very good conditions friction wise. I had briefly tried "Trop de Piquette" last time after I did "Tropicaux", but I only get mu butt of the ground, after which I found mself completely stuck and couldn't move out of the position I was in. With a fresh mind today, I let my body guide on what it felt like doing next and came up with a possible solution. It turned out to be a very awkward and difficult move, but after pushing through, I was able to stick it and top out.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Trop de Piquette 7B+
On my way back, I passed by "Egoïste" and realized that it was dry as well. I had only tried once or twice, but only briefly because the balanced moving didn't suit me well and I figured it was not in my style. That was maybe ten years ago though, so I decided to stop and give it a few goes. Surprisingly, I was able to find my balance and was moving quite well through it. After a handful of attempts, and some minor tweaks, I topped out this ultra classic and had a hard time understanding why I never did this sooner.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Egoïste 7A(6C+)
The sitstart, "Egoïste (assis)", followed immediately after.
