July 31, 2023 - Full line executed.

I arranged with Olaf (Deppe) to meet again at the "Bicarbuartion" roof so I could join him with finally trying the full line. Yesterday I was shut down by "Equilibrium", always falling off the last and hardest move, so my fingers were wrecked and I didn't feel in good shape when I arrived at the roof. Nevertheless, I didn't set any expectations for sending "Bicarburation", but rather was there with a mindset seeing where I will end up.
After having done "A l'Envers" a couple of days ago, I still remembered the moves of the crux, but took some time to work it out again, so there would be less room for doubt when getting there from the start. When an English couple arrived with their kid and dog, Olaf's dog and theirs got into a short fight, hard enough for the English dog to be wounded on its paw and while they were all taking care of it, I used the occasion of the quietness at the roof itself to do a first try in "Bicarburation" from the start. I climbed through the first part quickly and was still feeling better than expected when I arrived at the bat hang rest, so I decided to not stay there too long, chalked up one hand and continued on. To my pleasant surprise, I stuck the crux, stayed calm and focused, and without seemingly too much effort worked my way to the end and topped out.
It took several minutes to realize and sink in that I had just done "Bicarburation".

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Bicarburation 8A

Somehow, the feeling of not being in good shape had dissipated and thanks to adrenalin, my fingers didn't hurt anymore. There are stil so many variations on that roof and I chose to try "A l'Endroit", which I was able to flash.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - A l'Endroit 7A+(7A)

In between a few short rain showers, I finished my session with a flash of "Le Bi Yo Back".
Unfortunately, the rain showers followed closer and closer to each other and the boulder became too wet to attempt another line. Still more than enough to come back for.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Le Bi Yo Back 7A+

July 29, 2023 - Sword fight.

After a lot of rain yesterday, I didn't expect much when drove to Beauvais Nainville. Especially when I was walking up to the South slope of the hill, as good as all hope perished by the sight of only wet boulders. On top of the hill it was dry, but there wasn't much that I felt like trying. I left my stuff near the boulder with "Anthracite" and almost convinced that it would be in vain, I walked down the North slope towards "L'Epée de Sable". Oriented North, I was certain to find it wet, but against all odds, found it to be dry from bottom to top. I decided to get my stuff and try the right sitstart of "L'Epée de Sable". 
Working out the moves of the bottom didn't take very much time and as I had already done the upper part before, I didn't bother spending energy on it. I turned on the camera, and unexpectedly executed all the moves and topped out, even though I had the feeling to fall off any moment at the last very far move. That one was much more reachy than I remembered.

Fontainebleau - Beauvais Nainville - L'Epée de Sable (assis droite) 7C

July 27, 2023 - In the pocket.

Last week, I had agreed with Olaf (Deppe) to meet him again at "Bicarburation" roof, in Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie, when he would work the line again. My goal before trying that long line, was to first try the slightly shorter "A l'Envers", which has the same crux. At least, if I would be able to that one, it would be a step closer to "Bicarburation" itself in the future.
We both worked in the same crux with the two finger pockets, which helped in defining and redefining beta and learning from each other and to take needed rests in between attempts. After some time, and after progressing slowly but steadily, I decided to always start from the start of "A l'Envers" instead of two moves in. I was confident about the first two moves, and knew that if I would get passed the crux, I shouldn't fall off anymore as long as I stayed focused. I just didn't want to do the crux and then come off to try from the actual start, risking to not being able to repeat the crux again. This turned out to be the right decision, because during one of those attempts, I suddenly managed to stick the crux, losing a lot of power and energy, but I stayed calm and continued on to the end. It was a great feeling to achieve this goal, it was in the pocket.
A short break later, I still quite easily managed to do the first part of "Bicarburation" until the bat hang rest, the point that is two moves in from "A l'Envers". It means that doing the whole line should be within reach, even though I will have to learn how to rest properly and actually regain energy instead of losing some.
Olaf had a good session with again good progress. "Bicarburation" might be in his pocket not very long from now.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - A l'Envers 7C+(7C)

July 24, 2023 - Unraveling mysteries.

There are a few problems that have always been a mystery to me. One of them being "Katagena" in Gorge aux Châts, or at least the original sitstart as done my Manuel Marquès at the time. Starting with the crimps under the overhang and both feet deep always seemed impossible. It seems that there one or two broken holds under the overhang and possibly made it way more difficult to start as Manuel originally did, at least for the grade that it was supposed to be.
Bart (Van Raaij) noticed that too, and has done a logic standing start at the lip of the overhang, giving it 7A+. For me personally, this felt closer to 7A than 7A+ as I was able to flash it starting that way.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Katagena 7A+

When I decided to use the left part of the pedestal for the feet, it made the moves towards the lip possible, but for some reason, I found the second part that I flashed minutes before, suddenly much harder and it made me rethink my first impression of the standing start being 7A. Coming from the sitstart and using the left part of the pedestal for the feet seemed like soft 7B or hard 7A+. 

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Katagena (assis avec le socle gauche) 7B(7A+)

Another one of those mystery problems, "Piège à Loup", happens to be down the hill near "Katagena", and for Bart it turned out to be a similar mystery. Starting with both hands on the low horizontal crimp in the overhang feels totally impossible, especially for the given grade. No matter what I ever tried, even starting with one hand on the crimp and the other on the arete on the right, there was no way to get away from there. Bart did another start with the arete for the right hand and a high sloper for the left. Trying it this way, I did it on my second attempt and can't say that it was harder than soft 7B this time. It feels however, more like doing a static start of "L'Evasion du Loup", hence I decided to name it as such as in my humble opinion, it differs too much from the "Piège à Loup", if it was actually ever done in the way it is described. I have my serious doubts about that.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - L'Evasion du Loup (départ statique) 7B(7A+)

Being right above the boulder of "Chien Errant", and still eager to climb some more, I decided to try that one, despite it being a long traverse. It was a good occasion to work a bit on my poor endurance and anti-style.
The only time that I tried this traverse many years ago, I always fell already just after the first corner. This time, I could easily get to the last part where the hardest two moves are, basically the crux of this whole traverse. After falling at the same spot four times in a row, I was pumped, but decided to give a last attempt, really focusing on my breathing time. It seemed to have helped, because it was the attempt that I made it to the end and topped out.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Chien Errant 7A+

July 22, 2023 - Not my crack.

Pieter and I wanted to do something different and decided to go try "Pure Line" in Rocher du Télégraphe. What attracted us the most about this seven meters long crack, was the fact that it would definitely be less hot in the shady cave where the crack runs through from start to finish. "Pure Line" being a crack that can only be climbed using proper hand jams, makes it a very atypical for Bleau, an otherwise almost non existent style of climbing in the wider region. Unlike Pieter, I had never tried such style of climbing and he had to show me how to tape the hands for protection. 
I have to be honest and admit that I totally underestimated this style of climbing. It was way harder than I had anticipated and we only managed to do half moves, in other words, we could lift our asses from the ground in some places, let go of one hand, but not even lock it back in the crack. Even after an hour of trying, there was barely any progress. I must say that I have gained huge respect for those that are to climb in this way. Big up to the few who can climb this whole seven meters long crack, I am definitely not one of them.

Trying one of the last moves of "Pure Line", pictured by Pieter.

After a while, we both agreed that this wasn't our thing and walked back along the blue path on the top of the hill, knowing that we would pass by the dangerously exposed boulder of "Rascar Capac". 
Due to the scary aspect of the uncertain topout and the scare factor, we had a little doubt about trying "Rascar Capac", but as we were there now, I decided to give it a go and was able to flash it with relative ease. Pieter didn't feel certain enough about the last and most scary move, so gave it a pass. I still tried the harder "Bachibouzouk", and even though I'm sure that I can do it easily, I also chickened out on that one. Maybe another time, with better skin and a fresher body, and maybe a second spotter.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Rascar Capac 7A

July 21, 2023 - Rest day... Right!?

I was supposed to take rest day from climbing today, to allow my skin to recover, but that thought only lasted until yesterday evening, when Pieter let me know that he would be today. He proposed to go to Gorges du Houx to climb in the shade of the cave where "Gargantoit" is located, coincidently the exact same idea that I had in mind after I realized that I would be climbing today anyway. Our plans were almost canceled due to rain during the night and this morning, but it started drying quickly as soon as the sky cleared up. When we arrived at the cave, we were delighted to notice that "Gargantoit" was completely dry, as if it hadn't rained at all.
I had already done the regular standing start of "Gargantoit" in November 2016, but I wanted to try one of the sitstarts so it was obvious to try the standing start again as a warmup and to mentally prepare. It only took me three attempts to top it out again. As I had it already on video, I didn't film it, but added the one from back in 2016 below. Apparently it was freezing cold that day, which is a huge contrast with today.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx - Gargantoit 7A+(7A) (2016)

Being more attracted by the moves of the left sitstart of "Gargantoit", I worked out the moves quite fast and much sooner than expected, if at all, I worked my way all the way to the top. A magnificent problem that gets my five stars without a doubt.
Almost immediately after, Pieter was able to finish the standing start as well.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx - Gargantoit (assis gauche) 7B+

Being there now and with still some juice left in me, we worked the start of the regular sitstart using the compression method. I was quite surprised to get back into the standing start quickly and decided to give it all I got for another top. Maybe a bit too soon, because I was completely pumped for the final move and couldn't hold it anymore. After a short break, I was able to take it down. Pieter made it into the standing start, but lacked the power and energy to go to the end.
Both sitstarts totally fit my style. Good effort for a supposed rest day.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx - Gargantoit (assis) 7B+

July 20, 2023 - Dissidence.

Even though I had tried "Dissidence" in Buthiers Piscine a couple of times already, I never could give if the full attention and effort that it required due to humid holds under the roof, making it pointless to continue. But when Olaf told me that he had done it a few days ago and that the whole problem was perfectly dry, I decided to to head out there this morning and give it all I got.
It was almost 10 o'clock when I arrived at the boulder this morning and the boulder was completely in the shade, which was a big advantage. Knowing the first part of the problem, I briefly worked out the second, hardest part and sooner than I expected, did all the moves, except for the actual topout. It didn't look like the latter should cause too much trouble, so I decided to give it some attempts from the start. 
The flapper that I pulled in my finger last week wasn't completely healed and when it opened up again and started bleeding after my second attempt, I was on the verge of giving up and coming back for it another day. Luckily, I took the decision to tape it up again and give it a few more go's. Two attempts later, I found myself on top of the boulder. It was barely half an hour after I had arrived.
A very nice problem that can easily be done in the Summer.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Piscine - Dissidence 7B+

July 19, 2023 - Bad memory.

I had a vague memory about the "Bicarbuartion" roof in Gorges du Hous Oiseau de Proie, being in the shade, but while walking towards it, I soon realized that it was a false memory somehow. As I hadn't planned on trying "Bicarburation" itself, but rather some of the shorter of the many lines, I didn't really bother too much about it being partly in the sun. I expected to be alone at the boulder, but it was a pleasant surprise that Olaf, a German friend that I met several years ago and occasionally bumped in to, was there too. He was working out separate parts of the very long "Bicarburation" and I was glad to join him for a climb in the roof, even though I had my mind set on other problems, starting with "Le Bi Haut". 
It took a while before I figured out how to get through the roof without swinging out, but once I did, the ascent followed fast. It was only when I looked on bleau.info for something else in the roof, that I discovered that I apparently already had done "Le Bi Haut" seven years ago, back in 2016, and even already a video of it. As it was in October of that year, it became clear why I remembered the roof being more in the shade. 

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Le Bi Haut 7B (repeat)

I apparently hadn't done "Le Bi Yo" yet, which has the same start, but with an exit in "Bicarbuartion", more to the left. It seemed like an obvious choice and after I quickly tried the last part, I sent "Le Bi Yo" immediately after it without it giving me any trouble or too much effort. I will go back to the roof soon to try some of the other harder and longer problems.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Le Bi Yo 7B

July 14, 2023 - Consolation prize.

Bastille Day in France especially means public holiday, and it promised to be a hot one. I left early to Mont Simonet, but shortly after I started climbing, my skin wasn't really cooperative and I had to stop trying anything too hard. To make it even worse, I finally found a way to initiate the dynamic move of "Coïncident" but when I nearly stuck the sharp hold, I swung out and pulled a bad flapper on my right middle finger. I taped it up, but retrying "Coïncident" was out of the question. On the verge of despair, I strolled around until I found myself in front of "Aréopage", felt that the starting hold was okay for the flapper, and decided to give the direct version a try. 
I only had to try the first move twice to get the coordination and on my third attempt, stuck it and topped out. It felt like a consolation prize as I had hoped to get away with more, but at least it was better than nothing.
The finger will need some time to heal, so I guess it's a good coincidence that I planned to visit family in Belgium this weekend.

Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - L'Aréopage (direct) 7B

July 09, 2023 - Thunderstruck.

The intent of going to Le Calvaire and try some problems on the boulder of "Sombre", was to ensure climbing in the shade, but it turned out to have another very beneficial purpose. The thunderstorm that I only expected to arrive late this afternoon, was way early and around the time that I arrived at the boulder, the distant rumbling in the sky had come very close and the first rain drops had started to fall. Right after I put on my climbing shoes, the mild dripping turned into heavy rain and thunder and lightning had turned into a magnificent show of nature.
I was lucky to stay dry in that small cave-like spot and was able to climb, but unfortunately not very long. When I managed to stick the crux move of "Morceau de Sable", the topout had become soaking wet. Luckily the last part climbs a quite easy blue on jugs, so didn't really have to worry about it. By then also, which was less fortunate, the rain on top of the boulder had accumulated enough for it start dripping through the roof and I had to move my stuff to better shelter. Climbing anything else had become pointless, so I waited for a window to head back to the car. 

Fontainebleau - Le Calvaire - Morceau de Sable 7A

July 08, 2023 - Way too hot.

The temperature didn't drop below 22°C last night and when I left for climbing this morning, it already felt hot. My choice to try a few boulders on the North ridge of Cuvier Rempart turned out to be a bad one, so while looking for some shade, I ended up in Cuvier Nord where I was only able to do "Vibranium (placé)", an overhang that I had never seen completely dry during my many visits to the area a few years go. It was almost unfortunate that I flashed it, because after it, I was on the lookout for some doable problems in this heat. Finally, the heat took the upper hand and was tempted to go back home and dive our pool, which I did. 

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Nord - Vibranium (placé) 7A

July 05, 2023 - The battle for Troy.

Last Saturday, I spent over two hours working "Trojan War" in Buthiers Tennis. It seemed out of my league for a long time, but I finally found the courage to spend some time on it. A steep overhang with pure compression on bad slopers does fit my style and after finishing my session on Saturday, I had worked out all the moves and fell off the last hard move a couple of times. I was close, but the energy and power was gone after that long session. 
I had been thinking about the whole week up to now and when the temperature dropped a yesterday and today, I couldn't resist going back to try and finish it off. It was again a long process where the hardest move, for me at least, was the right at the start, aiming for a good slopey hold in the crack left hand. I could finish the problem almost every time when started there, but failed many times sticking that move and when I did, I failed at the last move again several times. 
I was almost at the point to admitting defeat again and mentally prepared to let go of it again today, but then all of a sudden, it all went smooth and I could work my way to the top of this beautiful low problem. It was a long and hard battle, but I ended up winning the war.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Tennis - Trojan War 8A