July 03, 2025 - Into the night.

When Olaf agreed yesterday evening to go try "La Nuit" in Coquibus Longs Vaux today, I already started to get a bit nervous. This beautiful problem has been on my list from the very first time I saw it, but I had tried it once briefly with Pieter. Given the exposure, I would at least need a second crashpad and preferably a spotter, to feel safe, so I never had the chance to go back for it, or just didn't think about it at the right moment. When I started realizing yesterday evening that today could be the day, I felt excited and nervous at the same time.
The temperature this morning was perfect, still around 20°C, but compared to the past two weeks, it felt fresh and I could feel the difference in oxygen in the air as well. A light breeze made it all even better.
The boulder allows for working out the moves separately, so that's exactly what we did. During the process, Olaf gained more and more confidence, and started believing that "La Nuit" could be an unexpected cherry on the cake of his trip.
We both made good progress and after I had done all the moves separately, I took a short break before giving it my first actual go from the start.
It was completely unexpected that I was immediately able to do the first move, and for a split second second I felt a slight hesitation, but I regained total control when I also did the second move. We had practiced the other moves very thoroughly and I continued, executing the remaining moves perfectly until I reached the top. It was a magical moment.
By the time I had to leave to be back home for my son, Olaf was still missing one move, the first one. He had come close, and I felt sorry that I really had to leave. He understood though and walked with me back to the car so he could take a second crashpad for his remaining attempts. He was determined to finish "La Nuit" as well.
I think I felt as much joy as when I stood on top of the boulder when he sent me a message a few hours later, writing he had done "La Nuit".

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Longs Vaux - La Nuit 7C(7B+)

June 29-30, 2025 - Heat alert.

With temperatures going deep into the 30°C the last days, it's extremely hot, just like in many other European countries. Because of the extreme, it's nearly impossible to climb in the afternoon, and even in the morning, it's best to find some very shady boulders.
Yesterday, I met up with Olaf and Victor at Beauregard, to climb in the shady roof of "Seuls les Vrais le Savent". Olaf was working in "Seuls les Vrais le Savent" itself, while Victor and I were working in "C'est Toujours Pour Ceux qui Savent". Despite the three of us doing moving quite well, we couldn't finish our respective boulders.
As a consolidation prize, we did do a team ascent of the easier "Savoir Limitrophe", after which Victor had to leave.

Fontainebleau - Beauregard - Savoir Limitrophe 7A(6C+)

Olaf and I stayed at the boulder, where I was still able to squeeze out a quick ascent of "Les Sachants s'Echauffent (droite)", also repeated by Olaf later that day.

Fontainebleau - Beauregard - Les Sachants s'Echauffent (droite) 7A

Today, even though already very hot in the morning, I met with Olaf in Recloses where we walked straight to "Le Clapotis Rondouillard", a boulder that I couldn't try last time, a few weeks ago, because it was wet. Now it was perfectly dry. 
I warmed up in the standing start, but came to realize that the move to the right of the low start is really morpho. Despite being able to reach the hold, there was no way for me to hold it due to not being able to keep my left foot where it was, no matter what, my legs aren't long enough, and I always cut off. As I also couldn't do Manuel Marquès' method, I was about to give up, when I suddenly had the idea to try the far right move and keep myself from swinging, by doing a left toehook catch at the same time. It still felt nearly impossible, but it gave me hope and I decided to try that method some more. It's a kind of move that you would normally see in new-school competition style boulders.As I never climb indoors, I'm not familiar with that style of climbing, but thanks to my gymnastics background (I guess), I seemed to be learning fast and got close to holding it with every attempt.

When I finally did that move from one move in, I turned on the camera, was able to do it again two attempts later and finished it off.

Fontainebleau - Recloses - Le Clapotis Rondouillard 7B+

After doing the easy, but nice slab right next to it, we moved over to the nearby boulder of "Body Press", which seemed impossible with very bad slopers in the heat, but, very surprisingly, I was able to finish it on my second attempt.
Definitely not a bad session in that heat.

Fontainebleau - Recloses - Body Press 7A+(7B)

June 15, 2025 - Good vibration.

Yesterday evening, the whole family went to the Oh My Bloc festival in Milly, where it was great to see some friends, some of which I hadn't seen for a long a time. I tried to be back home on time to not disturb my rhythm too much, but there a marriage party going two houses away from mine and I had difficulties falling asleep. By the time I almost fell asleep, it was well past midnight when I was suddenly spooked by loud bangs of fireworks from the party right next door. I was wide awake again. No wonder I was feeling very tired this morning when I met Olaf at Rocher d'Avon. He, Lars and Simi were at the festival too, and stayed longer than I did, so it wasn't a surprise that they were feeling quite tired too.
Luckily, the temperature went down substantially today, and the friction on the boulder of "Basta" was very good, which was somewhat motivating. Nevertheless, I didn't have anything too hard in mind.
I started with "Rasta (assis)" which I strangely enough had never tried before. The dyno was okay, and so was the topout, but I needed a bit of time to work on the middle move to be able to match the lip of the overhang right hand. Once I knew what to do though, it went down quickly.

Fontainebleau - Rocher d'Avon - Rasta (assis) 7A

Right after Olaf did "Pasta", I followed with "Pastis", starting in "Rasta (assis)" and topping out at the far right, above "Freak of the Weak". That was fun to do with such good friction.
Manuel (Marquès) was working in a new problem just below and after he had come over to see who was there, he invited us to come and try what he was working on. I was able to do the standing start on my second attempt, but felt too tired to do the crux move of the sitstart. Motivated by our presence, Manuel was able to send the whole line with us watching and motivating him.
After a nice long chat, we went back to the boulder of "Basta", where also Lars and Simi had arrived by that time.

Fontainebleau - Rocher d'Avon - Pastis 7A+

Simi lost a lost of skin trying "Hasta", while Lars and I made very quick work of "Pasta". 
Lars had a very hard time for the matching move on "Rasta (assis)", but after carefully working on little details on his body position, he also ended up with doing it. Olaf had too much trouble doing the dyno move, but was still able to do the standing and crouching start.
Good vibrations on what felt a bit like a lazy day, but ended up being quite productive for the state I was in.

Fontainebleau - Rocher d'Avon - Pasta 7A

June 14, 2025 - Success after doubt.

Last weekend, I tried "La Traversée d'Incognito" and fell off the very last move a couple of times. It was only when I was already too tired to try again, that maybe "La Traversée de Zigzag" probably suits me more because of the toehooks at the first part of "Zigzag" itself. I feel pretty comfortable with them and even the impression that I can rest for a second.
This morning, after a few very hot days and warm nights, I met Olaf again at Justice de Chambergeot, determined to go full on for "La Traversée de Zigzag" and hoping to finish it before the real heat would start again. After a short warmup, just trying the moves of the last part, I felt quite confident, but fell off the last hard move again. There was still too much doubt in some of my movements and with so many moves, it's definitely better to stay in a steady flow.
The attempt after the exact same thing happened and the heat was already starting to kick in. The sweat was dripping of my face and whole upper body, and I told Olaf that I probably wouldn't be able to finish it today. Barely ten minutes, and one attempt later, I found myself on top of the boulder, having finished "La Traversée de Zigzag" with the support of Olaf, Lars and his girlfriend Simi. Unexpected success after doubt.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Chambergeot - La Traversée de Zigzag 7C

June 09, 2025 - My story about flashing "An 8A+".

Today was supposed to be an active rest day in the company of Olaf, Lars and his girlfriend Simi. I met Olaf at the parking of Justice de Chambergeot, and we walked straight to the boulder of "Zigzag". Many lines on this boulder, so enough choice.
After a short warmup trying some of the moves of "Zigzag", I sat down and sent it on my first attempt from the start. Olaf followed me quickly, but going through "Incognito (droite assis)".

Fontainebleau - Justice de Chambergeot - Zigzag 7A

Despite feeling tired and it being a kind of rest day, I started trying some of the moves of "La Traversée d'Incognito". At that moment, Lars and Simi also arrived, and I got motivated to try the whole line.
To my surprise, I got through almost the whole boulder, falling off the last hard move, feeling exhausted and with sweaty fingers. I felt too tired to try it again, but I'm sure that this should go down soon when I have better skin and feel fresh.
Below, the video of my attempt in "La Traversée d'Incognito", and my story about flashing "An 8A+" in Rocher Canon. Sound on if you want to hear about it.

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June 08, 2025 - Train delayed.

I met with Olaf and Brian on the parking of Pierre le Sault, just outside of Nemours. A small quite unknown area where I had never gone before, and neither had the others. We waited a while for Victor, but when he wrote that he was still in doubt of what to do, we headed for the boulder of "L'Arche". 
the boulder looked quite small from far, but as we got closer, it only looked better and better, especially when walking around it. There are a few lines that go through the long roof, each taking a different exit. We started warming with trying the exit of the least hard, "L'Arche (droite)". We figured it out quite quickly and after inspecting some of the other moves under the roof itself, I decided to go for it and was able to send it immediately from the start, which was not a luxury, because even though the holds are quite good, the amount of them can quickly wear one out.
When Olaf also managed to climb the whole line, it looked like it was going to be sending train on this one.

Fontainebleau - Pierre le Sault - L'Arche (droite) 7A+

While Brian was still working some of the moves under the roof and trying to perfect his sequence for the right topout, I quickly found the way to finish the slightly harder left exit. I didn't let any time pass and sent the left exit also from my first attempt when coming from the start. This was definitely harder than the other, but I didn't hesitate and topped it out, albeit being completely out of breathe.
I filmed both exits again separately to give an idea of how these look. 

Fontainebleau - Pierre le Sault - L'Arche (gauche) 7B

Meanwhile, the sending train was delayed, because due to very bad, or the lack of, skin on his fingertips, Brian fell at least three times on the sloper at the very last move of the right exit. When he finally decided to give it one last go before giving up, it turned out to be the good one and he was still able to hop on the sending train, just in time.
Great session with good and chill company on a very cool boulder. Nothing but good vibes.

June 07, 2025 - Shared excitement.

I met Olaf this morning on the parking in Le Vaudoué, as we decided to go the small and quite unpopular area of Le 111. It being unpopular was one of the reasons why we chose that area, as it is again a long weekend with Monday being a public holiday in many European countries. The weather wasn't as good as last week, and it had even rained a bit this morning, but there was a nice wind, and everything was dry again quickly.
It's quite a long walk to Le 111, but as usual, Olaf's company made it feel shorter than expected.
We immediately started trying "Chaud Latin", the other reason why we chose that area. The conditions felt mediocre at first, but got better with every attempt. It was quite fast that I suddenly got high enough to be in a good position for the final jump, but I hadn't turned on the camera yet, so I decided to jump off instead. I felt quite confident that I would be able to that last far dynamic move, even though it's a somewhat scary one.
Unfortunately, a thicker grey cloud passed over and there was a short light rain shower. Not enough to make the rock wet, but just enough to make the slopey hold far right loose the good friction that I felt when getting there the first time. On top of that, I was climbing too confident and didn't pay enough attention to important details, which made fall off a few times. When I finally ended u in the good position again, and the friction was back, I set off for the jump and stuck the high sloper from the first time. A truly beautiful problem with great moves from start to end.

Fontainebleau - Le 111 - Chaud Latin 7B

Olaf usually needs some more time to get into it, but he was making quite progress this time. When he suddenly cruised through the first part and got to the far right slopey hold, he started to amaze me. He got the left hold just barely, but hung in there and slowly got into a much better position. He was in position to do the jump, but he looked down and I could feel and see his doubt. I encouraged him, even though I somehow expected him to bail out and jump off, but he stayed there, positioned his feet to prepare for the jump. I watched in awe and saw him make the big jump, but he just didn't make it far enough.
Despite not having made it, we were both extremely excited. Knowing Olaf, doing such jumps is not his cup of tea, so I really admired his great effort. I could see on his face that he had surpassed himself in a way and I felt proudness and true excitement for him.
He made handful of other great attempts at the jump, but he had to throw the towel in the end. He will be back for it again at another day, and I would love to be there for him when he does. I would love to another such session of shared excitement.

On the way back, we stopped at the nearby Rocher de la Tortue, where we were advised by Markus (Neher) to the sitstart of "Opus Marron". Markus had opened the standing start not very long ago, but hadn't been able to do the sitstart. 
I'm not entirely sure if Markus meant a sistart slightly left with an obvious undercling, but it seemed like the most logical place to start.
Olaf wasn't very interested in it, so I got away with the first ascent of "Opus Marron (assis gauche)".
Hard to grade, but I would estimate it be about 6C+, maybe 6C, depending on how tall you are.

Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Tortue - Opus Marron (assis gauche) 6C+ (First Ascent)